Working with the Simflex Tool to get No-Gaping Shirt Fronts
Have you ever diligently traced the markings from your sewing pattern to your fabric, carefully sewed the buttons and buttonholes and then found that when you wear your new shirt you have an unpleasant gaping over the bust? Yuk.read more...
Despite careful fitting, things like that-time-of-month, weight gain, or a different bra may contribute. Certainly you can use a piece of tape or awkwardly try to hide a safety pin to close the gap. But being a home sewist, why not tackle the problem while you’re making your shirt?
Here are a few quick steps that will guide you in using the handy SimFlex tool to help position your button placement.
- Only mark the top and bottom button placement from your pattern markings.
- Try on your almost completed shirt, with undergarments, and determine your bust line. This is usually at the apex of your bust. Mark this spot BL (for bust location).
- Lay your shirt out flat and stretch the SimFlex to match the top and bottom button placements; find the closest SimFlex peg to your BL and reposition.
- Contract or expand the SimFlex, keeping the BL position constant until the top and bottom peg locations are the closest to their original positions. Mark these peg positions and sew your buttonholes here.
You may need to add or subtract a button and/or reposition the bottom or top button positions. Keep fiddling until you get the best fit. Usually you can go up or down on the BL by 1/4″ to 3/8″ without encouraging gaping. You can find the SimFlex in my store for sale here.